After spending a chilly night outside of Cooke City, we were pretty happy to head back into Yellowstone for a beautiful day. We got caught in another bison traffic jam – this time caused by some dipshit in a big rental RV, sitting smack-dab in the middle of the road. Once I figured out what he was doing, my inner Chicago driver emerged and I went around him.
In case you’re wondering how that shows my “inner Chicago driver,” well… I flipped him off as I passed.
Anyway.
We arrived in Gardiner, MT late in the afternoon. I don’t think I mentioned this before – but two of Michael’s friends from his restaurant days, Julie and Taylor, live in nearby Missoula and had two extra (FREE!) tickets for “An Evening at the Arch: NPS Centennial 2016.” Emmy Lou Harris and John Prine were the headliners, which sounded awesome, and it was free, and we wanted to hang out with Julie and Taylor. So we took the extra time and checked out Red Lodge and Beartooth Pass before coming back to Gardiner.
Upon our arrival, I learned that there was actually a system in place to handle the 6,000 or so people expected to attend this concert. We parked at the Gardiner airport, right on the runway. There were plenty of people directing traffic and the whole thing seemed really organized. Once Julie and Taylor showed up (with Taylor’s sister Laura and Laura’s friend Mark), we all walked over to where the shuttle buses were lined up. It took about five minutes to get to the venue.
That’s where the adventure began. First, the venue was actually divided into two areas – one right next to the stage, with chairs and everything. The other was on the Gardiner high school’s football field. You couldn’t even see the stage from the football field – two large viewing screens had been set up for that.
Turns out the closer in seating was actually for people who’d paid money for their tickets. The football field was for those of us who got free tickets.
Whatever. A free show is a free show. And John Prine! Emmy Lou Harris!
The first person to take the stage? Actor Bill Pullman. He talked for quite a while. Confused, I got my hands on a program. Turns out that the first hour and a half of this “concert” was set aside for speeches. From people like Bill Pullman, Wyoming Governor Matt Mead, and Sally Jewel. (You can see a copy of the program here.)
The six of us all kind of looked at each other for a minute. I think it was Laura who suggested that we all walk back into town and find the nearest bar. (We were all wearing wristbands, so getting back in wouldn’t be a problem).
We came back a couple of hours later. I’m not going to knock any of the musicians I saw/heard that night. They were all super-talented. Besides, after 7 years of RockyGrass festivals, I’ve learned to look forward to bands I’ve never heard of before. I especially enjoyed Leyla McCalla and her cello and her Haitian songs. But where was John Prine? Where was Emmy Lou?
Eventually John Prine did take the stage. For exactly three songs. Emmy Lou was on stage for about 20 minutes. The show was closed out by gospel singer Dorothy Morrison.
Call my crazy, but when you claim your headliner is John Prine….
At least the shuttle bus back to the airport was painless. We drove back to Bozeman and Laura was gracious enough to let us stay (with our dogs and everything) at her place. Laura, you rock.
Then it was on to Missoula.
I’ve been wanting to check this place out for a long time. Like, since I was a teenager, when I got my first road bike, fell in love and wanted to go work for Adventure Cycling Association (they’re based in Missoula).
After a nice, relaxing Friday at Julie and Taylor’s adorable house (seriously, it’s a 1940’s bungalow, and I am in love with it), we got up Saturday with one goal: the Clark Fork River Farmer’s Market.
I love farmer’s markets, and I was absolutely blown away by the size and attendance at this one. Keep in mind that this is just one of three farmer’s markets in town.
The growing season is in full swing. I saw just about everything – and it all looked amazing!
Julie and Taylor got in line for a breakfast burrito – even minus the tortilla, it was still huge.
Michael decided to check out the meat offerings. There were several to choose from.
The Cloven Hoof locally sources all their meat…
…and I can tell you those rib chops were delicious.
There are crafts available at this farmer’s market – soap, beads, sunscreen, stuff like that. What did we find that wasn’t food? Pillows From the Sugar Loaf Wool Carding Mill. This was a total splurge, and we pretty much gave the nice lady my credit card before we could change our minds (or come to our senses…) No ordinary pillows, these are for side sleepers, so they are extra firm. Yeah, I know, that’s not what makes them special. (Or worth $50 each, but I suppose that’s a debate for another time.) No, what makes them special is what’s inside: 100% wool.
When I had a job, I used to write the company blog for Icelandic Design. I wrote an article about the wonders of wool that ended up in the 2015 catalog (if you’re so inclined, you can download the catalog – the article is on page 24). But I haven’t forgotten what I learned about wool. Wool garments wick away moisture, they don’t retain odors, and they are exceptionally durable as well as hypoallergenic. They offer better temperature control and are mold/mildew resistant. Wool is amazing.
I keep reminding myself of all this when I think of the price of each pillow. But honestly, our old pillows were old and desperately needed to be replaced. Still, I’ll let you know if sleeping with a wool-stuffed pillow is life altering or anything.