Oh! Zion

We got an earlier-than-normal start for our first day at Zion National Park. Both of were excited to see what Zion had to offer.

While there was a line of cars waiting to enter Zion, it was pretty short. And while the parking lot looked full, that was only the area closest to the shuttle buses. Way back along the east side? WIIIIIDE open.

So, by 9am we had our first success: entered and parked in Zion.

Time to get on the shuttle bus!

I might have mentioned this before but Zion is unlike most of the other National Parks in America in that it doesn’t actually have a “slow season.” Head up to Rocky Mountain or Yellowstone National Parks in the wintertime and you’ll practically have them to yourself. (I used to live 30 minutes from RMNP and I speak from experience.)

Zion? Not so much. It’s such a popular park that the shuttle buses run almost year-round (March through November). And when the shuttle buses are running, it’s the only motorized way through Zion Canyon. You can also hike it or ride a bike. The bike thing is something I’d love to do on our next trip here.

Yes, I’m already planning on another trip to Zion. I can’t say that it’s become my favorite National Park – that distinction belongs to Canyonlands – but I thoroughly enjoyed myself at Zion.

The shuttle buses run about every 10 minutes or so and we never had a problem getting on one, and throughout our trip we visited the entire canyon.

On our first day, though? We didn’t make it past a stop called The Grotto. See, that’s the stop for a famous trail called Angel’s Landing. We’d both seen images of this hike on Instagram and could not wait to see it for ourselves. There are signs at the trailhead that talk about how Angel’s Landing is a steep, strenuous, and dangerous hike (people have died on it) and extreme caution should be taken on this trail.

Game on!

After all that rhetoric I was a bit disappointed to see that the first two miles of Angel’s Landing is actually paved. I’m used to rougher trails, I guess? Pavement is usually a sign of civilization and I like to go out into the woods or the desert to escape civilization. National Parks are all a bit different, though, and usually part of their own reality.

In quick order this smooth, easy trail turned into a smooth, steep trail, which offered up some great views.

Then we passed through an area called Walter’s Wiggles, a series of steep switchbacks that tops out at an area called Scout’s Lookout. This is a nice spot to hang out, enjoy the views, and get ready for that last half mile.

That last half mile gains about 500 feet in elevation, but that’s not the rough part. No, the rough part is that in some sections the trail is only about 3 feet wide. And the dropoff on either side is over 1,000 feet. There are chains along the way to help guide hikers, but I have to say: this hike is intense.

As if all that wasn’t amazing enough… we got to the top. And this was the view.

An excerpt from notes I wrote in my journal that day:

• Took shuttle to The Grotto
• Hiked Angel’s Landing
• HOLY SHIT
• This might be the best trail I’ve ever hiked
• See pictures

We weren’t on the edge of the cliff or anything, and the area at the end of the trail is quite large. But we’re about 1200 feet above the canyon floor – and the Virgin River, which you can see in the picture above.

For those of you that are wondering: yes, Michael did hike Angel’s Landing in sandals. Now, these are not just some random cheap sandals. They are Luna Sandals and they are based on the “huarache” sandals worn by the Tarahumara people of Mexico. (If you want to learn more about it, read the book Born to Run.) Michael loves his Lunas, and he was as sure-footed as a mountain goat in them.

For our hike back down, Michael pretty much demanded that he carry my big camera. In his backpack. I didn’t realize I’d been making him so nervous, hanging on to the chains with one hand while keeping the other on my Nikon, but I have to admit the going was a lot easier when I could use both hands.

Angel’s Landing trail is about 5 miles roundtrip. And it kind of wrecked us. So we went back to the truck for lunch, then stopped in the visitor’s center to ask about camping. Sometimes we do pay for camping, but it needs to be a pretty special area. We both felt that Zion qualified.

While standing in line I saw a notice that the main road through the park, SR9, was going to be closed for three weeks for repairs. And that the closure started the very next day.

That meant Michael’s only chance to see the fabulous view you get upon exiting the tunnel westbound was… that afternoon. So at 4pm we jumped in the truck and I drove us to the east side, just so that I could drive back through the tunnel and Michael could get that view.

It wasn’t quite as awe-inspiring as when I came through the tunnel for the first time. I mean, for me, that view above was literally the first time I saw it. We approached from the west and the road had three switchbacks. What was I supposed to do, blindfold Michael? He tried not to look around but I think it was impossible. Still, he appreciated the sentiment.

Since it was getting close to dark we headed back up to camp at Eagle’s Crag again. Our original campsite was taken but I think we found an even better one.

Both of us were exhausted but ready for another round of Zion awesomeness.